
Remove the cistern lid. If the
mechanism for flushing the toilet passes through this lid then you DON’T have a
siphon, so there is no need to read on!
These instructions are for a
‘close coupled’ cistern which is the type where the cistern is mated to your
toilet. If you have any other type then the principle is very similar so just
make changes where needed.
You should see a square rod that
passes from the flush handle through the cistern. There will be a lever arm
attached to end of this rod and a metal wire that runs from the arm down to the
plunger in your siphon.
Now that you have ascertained
that you do have a siphon, we need to remove it. This can be easy, or in most
cases difficult! Follow this guide to help you.
Isolate the water going into you
toilet cistern. If there is no isolating valve on the pipe work leading to the
filling valve, then you need to turn it off elsewhere and drain the pipe.
Next you will have to empty the
cistern of water. Flush the toilet if you can or bail it out. You must get all
of the water out.
Disconnect the overflow pipe from
the cistern if there is one.
Now undo the back nut that joins
the cold water pipe to the inlet valve. The inlet valve will either come into
the toilet from the bottom of the cistern or from the side at the top. Do this
carefully so as to make sure the water is truly shut off. It’s your last chance
to avoid a flood!
Once you have removed the pipe,
and you will get some water coming out which is trapped in the pipe work so
have something ready to catch the water, you should loosen the filling valve
where it passes through the cistern.
Reach under the bottom of the
cistern and undo the two nuts, or wing nuts that secures the cistern to your
toilet pan.
Remove the two screws that hold
the cistern to the wall so that you can lift it off the toilet. Now drain any
remaining water from the cistern and lay it on the floor or bench to work on.
Using a set of pump pliers
unscrew the large plastic nut at the bottom of the cistern which secures the
siphon and metal plate (if there is one). The siphon will now pull out from the
top of the cistern.
Replace the siphon using a new 2
part siphon. It is more expensive but will save you all this trouble the next
time the siphon diagram fails because it give you access to the diagram without
going through all this nonsense!
Reassemble in reverse order, but
it is wise to use a new ‘donut’ seal where the cistern mates to the toilet.
Be careful when you connect the
cold water pipe to the inlet valve. You will remember that I told you to loosen
the valve, and here is why. Usually the valve has a cheap nylon thread which
the back nut from the water supply secures on to. If this inlet pipe is ridged
then it is very easy to strip the nylon thread when relocating the back nut. If
you have loosened the filling valve beforehand then you can move it and tilt it
a little to offer up the back nut and make the first turn. Take note not to
tighten the back nut just yet as you must first fully secure the inlet valve to
form a seal with the cistern. Now you are ready to do the final turns on the
back nut to form a seal with the cold water inlet pipe. Don’t forget to use the
fiber washer between the pipe and the inlet valve or it will leak!
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